Rip Current

Rip Current

A rip current is a localized current that flows away from the shoreline toward the ocean, perpendicular or at an acute angle to the shoreline. It usually breaks up not far from shore and is generally not more than 25 meters (80 feet) wide.

This image shows a rip current using a harmless green dye. Rip currents are powerful, narrow channels of fast-moving water that are prevalent along the East, Gulf, and West coasts of the U.S., as well as along the shores of the Great Lakes. Moving at speeds of up to eight feet per second, rip currents can move faster than an Olympic swimmer.
Image from National Ocean Service

Oftentimes associated with ocean beaches, rips can also form in the Great Lakes. While beachgoers may believe sharks are the most dangerous thing at the beach, surf zone incidents (which include rip currents) are responsible for about 100 deaths per year

  1. What’s even more shocking is the headline from the Washington Post which read, “Rip currents kill more people than tornadoes…”
  2. Why is that? NOAA scientist Nicole Kurkowski worked on a study to understand why humans are so vulnerable to these events.

With survey in hand, Kurkowski, a student intern, and NOAA colleagues went to Ocean City, Maryland to talk with folks about their understanding of these dangerous currents. Despite their sample size not being statistically significant, this survey gave researchers an idea of the assumed risk related to rip currents.

They learned that many beachgoers were aware of NOAA’s previous messaging campaign of swimming parallel to the shore to safely exit a rip current. However, they realized a different approach was necessary to save more lives. As a result of collaboration with lifeguard associations, federal and academia partners, the “Know Before You Go” campaign was initiated to ensure beachgoers always swim near a lifeguard. Statistics show that swimming near a lifeguard significantly reduces the loss of life due to rip currents. If the campaign is effective,  beachgoers’ vulnerability to these kinds of impacts would be reduced greatly. NOAA therefore rebranded the messaging to emphasize how to avoid rip currents, while continuing to include guidance on dangers of the rip current from how to get out of a rip current.

NOAA supported a social science study and worked with a student intern to better understand the public’s perception and risk of rip currents. They collaborated with several scientists in NOAA, as well as with outside organizations including lifeguards, the United States Lifeguard Association (USLA), and universities to communicate rip current information to the public. They went so far as to partner with the academic community to add colored dye to the water and record drone footage of rip currents to provide a vivid learning tool that shows the movement of water in an actual rip current event.

Rather than settling for messaging that had already been published by NOAA, the team used social science to gain a richer description as to why people were vulnerable to rip currents. Kurkowski says,

We did a complete reworking of the messaging program, including new videos, and updated messages …We don't just want to put a product out there but rather be informed by the public on their risk perception to help them avoid rip current situations altogether.

Going through the process taught her a few things too,

The old way of doing things with respect to developing  capabilities and pushing those out to the public, operationally, that's not the way we do things anymore. NWS has truly evolved to the Weather Ready Nation IDSS paradigm where we engage end-users first, regarding their needs and interpretations, ensuring they take the necessary protective actions in saving lives and property.

The messaging evolved to “always swim near a lifeguard”. Despite it only being one sentence, it was a much-needed life-saving message for the public. Lifeguards are well trained and have a better  vantage point of rip currents than folks sitting on the beach have.  As part of this ongoing collaboration, lifeguards are reporting rip current observations throughout the day to NWS. The data is uploaded to an  NWS database and website. The NWS Office of Science and Technology Integration’s Meteorological Development Lab (MDL) uses these observations to verify a newly implemented statistical rip current forecast model.

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